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San Cristobal Courtyard

 

Frank Bob Kull

1995
 San Cristobal de las Casas, Chiapas, Mexico

 

      In the small, enclosed courtyard outside my window, the high-mountain, cloudy Mexican sun falls soft and easy on warm, red, adobe walls.  I hear a soft splash as the two hours of daily water fill the concrete cistern in the near corner.  Beyond our walls I hear fireworks and clanging church bells announce the coming fiesta in the town plaza down the hill.

 

     A small fig tree, reluctant yet to bear fruit, shivers in the morning breeze with ragged leaves cupped upward to catch the falling light, and the young native woman, quick and brilliant as a humming bird, fills her bucket at the cistern to wash my dirty clothes.

 

    Her four children troop in from outside, the eldest of the girls, no more than eight, carries her tiny brother strapped to her back with a worn blue rebozo.  They stop, dark eyes peering, at my open door to wonder at my strangeness.

 

     “Bananas,” I say, “do you like bananas?”

     Shy nods and grins as I hand them over.

     “You,” I demand of the tiny one,  are you going to eat a whole one?”

     His outstretched arm and clutching fingers answer me succinctly.

     “Thank you,” the three small girls smile at me;  the tiny one too busy trying to peel his plunder to notice me further.

 

     And now they sit in my vibrant courtyard quietly chattering and munching and singing to my heart.

     The tiger-striped kitten tumbles and plays in the sand-pile, left over from building a new chimney;  no, not playing.  He just took a dump and then decently hid it from my view.

 

    An arched doorway in the adobe-brick wall opens onto muddy path that leads to the chicken yard, compost heap and outhouse.  Walking intently back and forth along the path, my landlord’s cousin.  Her awkward movement shifts the flow of the morning as she paces out her inner need.  Framed in the doorway, she halts and stays staring down; mouth working around a single snaggled tooth jutting out,  Her hands push repeatedly downward--warding off invisible intrusions--as she inaudibly chants her secret incantations of hope and protection.

 

     “I’ve finished  the woman who washes my clothes tells me.

     “Thank you,” I say, “can you come back in two weeks?’

     “What day?”

     “Is Thursday OK?”

     “Yes, two weeks, thank you.”

     “Yes, goodbye.”

     “Yes.”